-Polysorbates: Synonyms are All PEG (Polyethylene & Polypropylene glycol) compounds, like PEG-20, 40, 60, and its synonyms, Polysorbate-20, Polysorbate-40,etc.
-Sorbitan Monostearate and other sorbitan based ingredients are also synonyms with PEGs (polysorbates).
Petrolatum – Petrochemicals: You will rarely see “petrolatum” listed anymore. However its by-products are often listed. We’ve included a list of a few glaringly concerning petroleum derivatives below. But sometimes, petroleum is actually listed, but clever marketers will disguise the name, we’ve tried to include all of the synonyms below. Contaminants from hydrocarbons, and the processing of crude oil:
Toluene, Hexane, Mineral Oil, Paraffin Wax, Benzene, Mineral oil, Liquid paraffin. The Glycols Specifically Propylene Glycol and Butylene Glycol. (The other glycol “polypropylene glycol”, also known as PEG, is an ethoxylated ingredient and is included on our Dirty List). Propylene and Butylene Glycol are synthetic chemicals derived from petroleum compounds and are used mostly to attract moisture to the skin, as well as condition the texture of the product to keep it from separating. The Cosmos Standard in the EU accepts Propylene and Butylene at small levels and there is not enough research to document major concerns. One thing we are aware of however is that these two glycols may increase the skin’s ability to absorb, meaning if the product contains anything in it that may be potentially irritating the glycols would increase their absorption.
Retinyl Palmitate and other various retinoids,
(Vitamin A palmitate). The concern is mostly when the ingredient is on the skin and then exposed to sunlight. Retinyl Palmitate appears to be safe in night creams and other applications in when not exposed to sunlight.
Silicones You will mostly find them listed as
dimethicone, cyclomethicone, cyclopentasiloxane, or ingredients ending in “cone” – and they are included as an ingredient to adjust the texture, make the skin feel smooth, fill in wrinkles, and add shine and glow. There really isn’t enough research to identify this synthetic chemical as cause for concern for human health, but there are a few things about it that we thought we’d let you know so you can make an informed decision:
1) It is a totally synthetically manufactured chemical, not derived from plants 2) It’s has been shown to bio-accumulate, meaning it does not biodegrade and may cause environmental damage 3) It is an occlusive, meaning it will clog pores. So if you are acne prone, it may be best to stay away from products that list this as an ingredient. Synthetic Color Pigments derived from petroleum (aka coal tars). These color pigments are highly regulated by the FDA, and the FDA only allows the use of these specific FDA approved colorants – we verify this with our brand partners to ensure their compliance.
Synthetic Fragrance EU labeling laws require that any product that is scented by either plant-based (meaning essential oils) or nature-identical compounds (synthetic compounds that mimic naturally occurring ones) be listed as “fragrance” or “parfum” on the label. Brands using essential oil blends are asked to identify the individual oils by using an *. Whereas a brand that uses synthetic compounds (aka natural identical) will not list the individual chemical compounds. We thoroughly vet brands using synthetic fragrance, note it on each ingredient page and obtain a statement that they have verified that the synthetic fragrance molecules used do not contain phthalates.
Ingredients that you will most likely not see listed anymore on any ingredient deck anywhere. There has been recent legislation in the US, EU, UK and Japan, banning and restricting their inclusion in personal care products: Antimicrobials:
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- Triclosan: Synonyms: 5-chloro-2-(2-4dichlorophenoxy)phenol.
- Triclocarban: Synonyms: TCC; cusiter; CUTISAN; CP 78416;ent26925; Nobacter; genoface; ENT 26925;Procutene; NSC-72005.
Note: As of September 2016, a new FDA ruling has now banned the use of these ingredients in antibacterial washes and sanitizers. BHT /BHA, preservatives: butylated hydroxyanisole and butylated hydroxytoluene Note: These chemicals are banned in UK and Japan; and are not often found in cosmetics; they are more often used as a preservative in food.
Bisphenols: Bisphenol A (BPA):
bisphenol B (BPB), bisphenol E (BPE), bisphenol F (BPF), bisphenol S (BPS) and 4-cumylphenol (HPP) to BPANote: Generally, you won’t find this listed as a cosmetic ingredient, but if it does appear, its more likely found in color cosmetics. The concern is mostly in its presence in plastic containers and paper receipt coatings – which has recently been banned in France.
Methyl Cellosolve; Synonym: 2-Methoxyethanol. Note: Because this ingredient has been banned in the EU (it’s a solvent used as an additive in perfumes). Chances are you won’t see it listed anymore as an actual ingredient component.
Methylisothiazolinone: Synonyms: 3(2H)-Isothiazolone, 2-methyl-; 2-Methyl-2H-isothiazol-3-one; 2-Methyl-4-isothiazolin-3-one; 2-Methyl-3(2H)-isothiazolone Note: As of January 2016 the EU has banned the use of this preservative, also known as MIT, in leave-on cosmetic products. So you probably won’t see this listed anymore as an ingredient component.
Resorcinol and 2-Methylresorcinol: also listed as 1,3-benzenediol, resorcin, 1,3-dihydroxybenzene(m-hydroxybenze, m-dihydroxyphenol) are mostly exclusively used in hair dyes, to help the color bond to hair shaft. Occasionally however they may creep into acne treatments to help smooth scaly, uneven skin. The main concern with these chemicals are their actions as colorants. The EU, Japan and even the US has restricted their use. (
Source: Credo Beauty, USA).